Category Archives: DIY

Great Crate Challenge… what I created with two crates and a $50 budget

Back in January I took part in the Calgary Renovation Show Great Crate Challenge… five local influencers were given two wood crates and a $50 budget to come up with something fun to be displayed at the show!… being as practical as I am I wanted to make something that was really functional and good looking… Seeing the crates I instantly knew what I wanted to create… a rolling crate storage ottoman that could be used as additional seating…

crates and planks

I applied glue to one side of each of the crates, pressed the glue sides together, and secured them with a clamp until they had dried… I cut down a wood plank to the exact size of the bottoms of the two crates once they were together… this would give much needed stability to the thin sided crates and create a solid base for screwing in the little casters.

You can see in the above shot I also cut a plank for the base of the top cushion that would becoming the ottoman cover and seat.  I used the solid wood plank for the top, as well, for stability for the overall ottoman… it needed to hold an adult sitting on it, in my mind, for it to be really functional. Now this top plank I cut down just a little smaller than the full size of the top as I planned to upholster it and didn’t want the top cushion hanging out all over the top like a giant mushroom cap BUT I ensured it was large enough that it wouldn’t fall inside of the crate edges.

crate challenge supplies

I was unable to turn up a thicker foam for the top, on my supply shopping adventure, so I purchased a roll of thinner foam and planned to layer it to build up an aesthetically pleasing thickness for the ottoman cushion top… I used the top plank as the measurement guide for the the foam rectangles and traced out the shape… then with a large sharp exact-o knife and cutting mat I cut the foam pieces out.

batting for crate ottoman top

Now to make sure it was really comfy I also used some quilt batting over top of the foam… this batting was also used to help hold the foam on the top of the top plank into place… Once the two pieces of foam were lined up on the top plank of wood I wrapped the batting over top, down the sides, and then under my top plank, where I secured it into place with staples… cutting away excess bulk at the corners – essentially miter joint at each corner with the batting 🙂 The batting is very forgiving here… staple it down then cut away… or cut and staple… whichever you way you can manipulate the material more easily.

crate ottoman top, foam, and ruler

For the fabric I chose to work with burlap… it would help me to achieve the overall look I was going for… when working with burlap I like to line all of the pieces with fabric to keep the seams and burlap stable as burlap can get a little out of control at times… I also always iron the burlap pieces like you should with any fabric when sewing… but not with the iron we use for our clothes – depending on the burlap you pickup it can be a little stinky (fabric store burlap is much nicer than hardware store burlap 😉 but it all depends on how rustic a look you are going for)

I cut the following pieces 1″ + my seam allowance, larger than the actual size required to create a tight cushion that would fit snugly on the foam and plank top, as I wanted to create a pinched edge around all sides and corners of the upholstered top:

1 top in burlap/1 top in liner fabric (I used an old bed sheet for the liner fabric)

2 long sides burlap / 2 long sides in liner fabric

2 short sides in burlap / 2 short sides in liner fabric

2 long sides 6″ wide in  burlap / 2 long side 6″ wide in liner fabric – for the bottom of the cushion

2 short sides 6″ wide in burlap / 2 short side 6″ wide in liner fabric – for the bottom of the cushion

crate ottoman cushion fabric

 

As I wanted a clean top cushion and to be able to pull the cover that I was sewing down over the top of the batting, cushion, and board I didn’t have a solid bottom – just four strips that were sewn along the long sides…  this turned into some finicky hand sewing and cutting away excess fabric at the bottom to mitre the fabric in at the corners to keep the bulk down and to create a nice finished look… Once the cover had the top and sides sewn together I sewed the 6″ wide strips to the bottom edges – along the sides only leaving them hanging from the bottom to be pulled under, mitred and those mitred seams in from the corners on the underside sewn down by hand.

Before attaching the cushion cover to the bottom off the plank I placed the cover over top, pinched the edges of the fabric around the top and hand stitched a seam on the outside of the fabric at 1″ in from the edge all the way around the top of the cushion and also at the four corners… to create the flange you see around the cushion… then I did the same all the way around the bottom edge… it’s a little finicky with the underside pieces being loose but I was achieving the look I was after.

Once I created the 1″ pinched seams around all the edges the cover was snug to the padded cushion… now the bottom mitred seams could be done and the cover would stay put on the cushion… once the mitres were sorted, excess fabric snipped away, and all sewn down I stapled the edge of the fabric to additionally secure the fabric cover to the cushion… if you want to get super tight here you could cut a rectangle to cover the opening… hand sewing the edge down to the underside of the cushion.

underside of crate cushion

I’m sure there are other ways to achieve this same look by leaving open other edges and hand sewing those closed after getting the plank/foam/batting stuffed in but for me, at midnight, this is what my brain turned up 😉 and the ottoman cushion top was complete!

PAINT!… As shown up above… the little can of FAT… I did my paint wash style of painting for this crate to give it a greyed old weathered wood look… I watered down my chosen colour and applied it all over the crate… it does go on darker and lighten as it dries… when doing paint washes I always recommend doing a test piece to ensure you’ve created a wash that will give you the results you want even as far as applying any finish that you plan to use over top as finishes like waxes or clear coats over a paint wash can change the look of the dried paint wash… for this rustic crate I did not seal the finish once it had dired… no wax and no clear… the wood was slightly rough which played perfect in with the old weathered crate look 🙂

Here are two posts where I show various paint washing techniques: Weathered Wood Feet & Shiplap Wall

crate challenge rolling storage ottoman

The colour of the wood worked perfectly with the burlap. The weight of the top seat/cover combined with the roughness of fabric and wood, and the little 1″ handsewn flange around the edge holds the cushion perfectly in place… it is easily lifts off as the cover is snug on the cushion, and sturdy, yet comfy for an adult to sit upon!…

And of course it was Oliver tested and approved before going on display at the Home Renovation Show! 😉

kitty approved crate ottoman

After the Home Renovation Show one lucky attendee won this ottoman! I have to admit I was sad to have to let her go… I’ll have to whip up one for our nest!

Have you created anything fun with crates? I want to hear all about it! Leave me a comment below… and a link to your website with your project! Can’t wait to see!

xo

Lacey

How to Gold Leaf… via Thrift Store Swap

This is a fun set of reveals that I’m going to share over two different DIY posts! The first post will show you how to Gold Leaf!… how to prep, apply, seal, and even glaze gold leaf!…

Early in the new year I joined a group of bloggers to do a Thrift Store Swap! What’s a Thrift Store Swap you ask!?…

Basically we each found items at a thrift shop to send onto another member of the group and we had to relove whatever we received, that someone else picked out for us!  We gave ourselves a month to repurpose the items and now we’re all sharing what we received and what we turned those items into!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The items I picked up to ship onto one of the swap members, Sammi, were these darling black and gold storage containers (I would have liked to have kept them!)… and a collection of metal pails… along with a couple that I’d had on hand myself in my stash already! To see what Sammi has created from her swap items be sure to check out her reveal post over on her blog!

Thrift Store Swap

The items that came to me, all the way from jolly ol’ England, were theses great hand turned wooden goblets with spindle tops, and a great piece of light canvas… when I unfold the canvas I discovered that it was a curtain panel!… These wood goblets were the perfect candidates to become gilded succulent holders! The light canvas curtain!? to see what that will become be sure to check back in a few days for that second reveal an DIY!Continue Reading

Faux Fur Wine Bottle Holder DIY

I love a little faux fur… Its a great way to add warmth and whimsy to your everyday!…  so I created this muppet looking faux fur wine bottle holder and tutorial to share with you… it would be a fun hostess gift for the next dinner party you attend, or perhaps even a fun GALentines present for your bestie and a fun girls night in this coming Valentines day!… There are so many variations of fur that you can get from realistic to downright muppet looking…

Let’s get right to it. For this DIY you will need:

Faux Fur and matching thread – we will cut a 10.5″ x 16.5″ rectangle and a circle with a 10.5″ circumference

Bottom Circle Pattern – download here – print out at full size and trace out then cut out a faux fur circle to use as the bottom of your wine bottle holder

Ribbon – to tie the holder around the neck of the bottle.  I worked with a 20″ piece… if you find it is too long after you can trim the ends to your preferred lengths

Rular

Scissors

Pins

Sewing Machine

Sewing Needle

Wine

This faux fur wine bottle holder was made for your standard size bottle of wine… if you choose to make this for a champagne bottle or any other larger bottles you may have to increase the size of your rectangle and bottom circle. The width dimension of the faux fur rectangle is 10.5″ and the height of the rectangle is 16.5″

There is a trick to cutting faux fur… You don’t want to snip away the fur, so after you’ve marked on your rectangle for cutting, use scissors to cut the pieces out… BUT when you cut the fabric have the backside of the fabric up and cut only the fabric back letting the lower blade of the scissors slide between the fur.

Once your rectangle and circle are cut pin those pieces together… decide if you want your fur going up or down… whichever direction you decide will determine the bottom of your faux fur wine bottle holder… Start the first pin 1/4″ in from the rectangle edge.

When pinning pieces of faux fur together work slowly and push the faux fur down and inside/away from the edge… this will ensure that your fur doesn’t get trapped in the sewn seam…

Working all the way around the circle pin the faux fur wine bottle hold bottom into place… We’ll deal with the vertical seam shortly… the faux fur is pretty forgiving so this will work up nicely.

For the sizes of piece cut for this faux fur wine bottle holder I worked with a 1/4″ seam allowance… its just nice and easy to use the edge of the presser foot as the guide I find 🙂

Start sewing the circle 1/4″ away from the edge of the rectangle and stop 1/4″ away from the other edge when you get around to it. Sewing the thick fabric pieces together can be a little tedious but just work slowly… you’ll be all around the circle in no time…

Once you’re around the circle remove the bottom pins and then pin up the open vertical edges of the faux fur wine bottle holder…

Now as you work up the side don’t forget to pin your ribbon tie into place!…

Fold your ribbon in half… and tuck the tails inside of the faux fur tube… the tails go inside now so that when the wine bottle holder is turned right side out the ribbon tails are right where they need to be… below you can see that the ribbon fold is up through the pinned edge of the faux fur wine bottle holder.

For the dimension here I placed the ribbon at about 13.5″ up the side… depending on where the neck of your bottle starts you can adjust this dimension to suit your bottle!

Once everything is pinned into place sew up the side using your 1/4″ seam allowance.

Once all is sewn and threads are trimmed turn that sucker right side out!

There you have it! Your sewn wine bottle holder with ribbon tie!… but wait!…

…if you wish to leave the cut edge at the top it will hold and not fray BUT if you want to kick it up a notch and give it a special finishing touch I recommend hand stitching the top edge back down to the inside of the faux fur wine bottle holder… This creates a finished edge and makes your work look pro.

…you don’t have to fold over and sew down much… just the edge that you can pickup with your needle… enough for the faux fur to fold over the top edge creating a full faux fur frenzy right to the top of your faux fur wine bottle holder!

Here is a bottle of the Canadian Red Rooster Winery Red Cab Merlot for one of my gal pals for galantines… a bottle of wine is a great gift… but look how fun it becomes when you pop it into a muppet faux fur wine bottle holder!

Or as mentioned this would be a fun wintery hostess gift kicked up a notch!…

Okay now get your tushies out to the nearest fabric shop to hunt down some faux fur for your very own wine bottle holders!…

And be sure to come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share photos of your faux fur wine bottle holders with everyone over there! I can’t wait to see what fur and ribbon combinations you come up with… and to hear about the gift giving occasion you used it for!… AND to hear about the reaction to your lovely handmade gift!

CHEERS BABES! 

Oh and if you enjoyed this DIY be sure to subscribe to receive these blog posts right to your inbox when I hit publish by popping your email address into the box in the right hand column at the top of this page! And if you want to pin with me come on over to the FMN page on Pinterest! See you there babes!

xx

Lacey

Reloved Ottoman Part 1: Weathered Wood Feet

I’ve just finished reloving the busy blue patterned lay-z-boy ottoman that I shared on instagram awhile back… between the reupholstery and preparing the new feet I have over sixty photos to share with you to show you step-by-step how to reupholster and step-by-step of how make the wood feet to look weathered.  I’ve broken this DIY project out into two parts: Part 1 – Weathered Wood Feet and Part 2 – Reupholstery. Part 1 shows the stages of creating the weathered wood look using FAT paint washes and waxes on some great soft maple bun feet from Osborne Wood Products… at the end of this post Osborne Wood and I have got a little treat for you!  The steps in this weatherd wood tutorial can be used on other raw wood items to make them look weathered as well.

Lets get things underway! I’ve taken a contemporary ottoman that I found at a second hand shop for $50 and have given it a vintage beach house vibe with canvas and driftwood looking weathered wood feet.

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The leg on the left is one of the original legs from the ottoman… a super contempo dark brown stained foot.  The leg on the right is from the incredible Osborne Wood Products. It comes in a variety of wood types… but it is just the beginning of the options at Osborne Wood Products.  They have a killer selection of furniture feet, table legs, moulding, corbels… and all available in a variety of wood from traditional, to premium, to specialty wood types… and be sure to check their specials section!  You’ll find pieces for every project!… and their shipping is speedy!

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I chose the Bridle Round Bun Foot in soft maple as the style was exactly what I was looking for to create the beach cottage vibe ottoman.  I chose the leg to be a little shorter than the original leg height, on purpose, as the ottoman sat about an inch too high in comparison to our couch… the ottoman is rather large and will double as ottoman and coffee table so I wanted it to be just a touch lower.

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The feet come without the furniture lag screws for screwing the feet into the existing ottoman feet screw holes.  I removed one of the existing ottoman feet by unscrewing it out of the bottom of the ottoman and brought it to Home Depot to ensure that I picked up the correct size lag screw for the new feet.  I also grabbed two nuts that fit onto the screw end of the lag screw… these two nuts are used to screw the lags down into the wooden feet.

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Before the painting and finishing of the feet we have to prepare them for the installation of the lag end of the lag screws. Preparing and installing the lag screws before finishing ensures that you don’t damage your finished paint and finishing work with the drilling and potentially man handling the feet to get the lags in. Prepare the feet by drilling a pilot hole into the top of the feet.  Find the drill bit that is the size of the lag end minus the threads.  Now see that gold washi tape on the drill bit?  I wanted to make sure that I drilled the hole deep enough so I marked the corresponding length of the lag on the drill bit… I recommend creating this tape mark as it will alert you to the proper depth that you need to drill into the top of the foot, and why not take a small step that makes the process that much simpler!?

The wood round bun feet, as they are a turned wood product, have marks in the centre at the top and bottom of each foot. This centre mark can be used at the guide for location for the lag pilot hole that we have to drill…

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To ensure that I drilled a straight pilot hole I used a drill press to create the lag screw pilot holes… it. went. quick. Drill the pilot holes in the top of all four feet and then vacuum away any wood dust.

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Now back to those two nuts I mentioned earlier… to install the lag screws into the feet…. take the two nuts and screws them just onto the top of the screw…. using a combination wrench and a ratchet with corresponding socket tighten the two nuts together… once tightened down together these two nuts will enable you to drive the lag down into each foot using the ratchet! BAM!…

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Once the nuts have been tightened together remove the combination wrench and use the ratchet to drive the lag into the pilot hole in the top of each foot…

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This part is easier if you have two sets of hands… one set to hold the foot and then the other set of hands to drive the lag with the ratchet.  If you don’t have a second set of hands you can use a vice… just be sure to wrap the foot with a cloth so that it does not get damaged by the vice.

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Once the lag is driven down into the foot use the combination wrench and ratchet again together, but this time to break the nuts apart so that the nuts can be removed from the screw end and used for the next lag install on the next foot…

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TADA!… four legs ready with hardware to be installed onto the ottoman!… only they’re still naked… let’s get onto creating the weathered wood look!

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The fist time you try this method I recommend testing it out on a scrap of wood… how the wood looks wet is different from how it dries, and then once waxed it changes again!… Using FAT Paint greys, water, CLING ON brush and mixing bowl I create a wash by picking up a dab of paint of one colour, for the first application, and then two paint brush splashes of water and I swish this all together in my mixing bowl… have a piece of paper towel or rags on hand, and lay down some plastic on your work surface – this can get drippy.

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Apply the wash all over the wooden feet and set them aside to dry… they might look splotchy as they dry but don’t fret… have a glass of wine and relax until they’ve dried and are ready for you to continue…

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They will dry evenly if you’ve thoroughly mixed your paint wash… notice how light they’ve dried compared to how dark the paint wash looked?  This is why I recommend a few test boards – once you mix a couple washes, playing with the paint to water ratio, you will get a good idea of how much water and paint to mix to achieve the like that you like the most in the dried piece.  For my first paint wash coat I used a brown based grey… for my second wash I used a blue base grey…

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Again, for the second paint wash layer for my weather wood look, I mixed paint and water with my CLING ON brush in a mixing bowl.

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I applied this second coat that I mixed a little more paint heavy and then blotted off the excess wash… don’t be afraid to play with applying and dabbing away to create the weathered wood look that you like…

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I’ve taken a wet and dry shot again to show you just how much they will lighten once the paint wash has dried…

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Here are the freshly paint washed feet after I’ve applied the second paint wash… they look splotchy and dark…

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…and here they are after the second paint wash coat has dried!… just lovely… now they’re still pretty raw and porous… if a drink was spilled on them they would absorb the liquid and depending on what that spilled liquid was it could stain the wood… the solution to this potential problem is waxing to seal up the wood and protect your paint finish… initially waxing will darken the wooden legs… but I have a second layer wax trick that adds to the weathered wood look.

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When waxing large surface of dressers I like to apply the wax with cheesecloth, but when I’m applying wax to a smaller piece that has nooks and crannies I like to apply the wax with a stiff bristled brush to make sure that the wax gets every inside edge and over every detail… A trick to working with coloured waxes is to apply a layer of the clear natural wax first… this seals the paint and creates a slip making the application and working of the coloured wax much easier, and prevents the pigment in the wax from staining the painted surface…

Now like many things there is an exception to this ‘natural wax first’ tip when you are working with a very dark paint colour and will be applying a dark wax. If the painted colour is very dark and you are looking to deepen the details even further you can go right into using your dark wax to finish the piece off, skipping the layer of natural wax first… if you’re feeling hesitant about this do a small test on a scrap piece of wood to ensure that you will get the results that you want.

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Using a stiff bristled brush I first apply natural wax all over the surface of my weathered wood look feet…

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…let the piece sit for five minutes and fluff up a piece of cheese cloth to get it ready for buffing the wax that has been applied… if you cut the cheese cloth from a larger piece be sure to give it a shake to get any little cut fluffies out of the cloth. Also if plan to use something other than cheesecloth to buff the wax be sure that it is lint free… trust me! once I tried to use an old t-shirt to buff wax on a white dresser… it was a lint disaster!… now I’m a cheese cloth wax buffer!

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Using the cheese cloth be sure to buff the excess wax out of the grooves and give the whole feet a good buff overall.

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The natural wax brings out the wood grain and deepens the the colours of the paint washes… it creates a rich beautiful finish… but because I want a weathered look I do one more wax step past the natural wax… white wax.

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For more compassion to show the differences between the steps check this out… on the left we have the foot that has been paint washed and has dried, with no wax to finish it yet.  On the right is the paint washed foot that has been finished with the natural wax.  Quite different right!?

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To me, beachy weathered wood is much lighter as it has been washed out by the salty sea and bleached by the sun… my final step to created a weathered wood look is to apply a coat of white wax…

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In the same fashion as applying the natural wax apply the white wax with a stiff bristled brush ensuring that all nooks and crannies are well coated… on larger items and flat surfaces I apply wax inline with the grain…. as these feet are small and the grain varies I just slap the wax on there to make sure that all details have been well coated…

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Let this sit for 5 and fluff up your cheese cloth to get ready for a buff!…

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Now when I buff the white wax layer I’m not as vigorous in the areas of the grooves… I want to leave some wax build up behind in the grooves to make the details pop and to add to the over time build up aged and weathered look… and I don’t buff the overall surface as vigorously, leaving a nice layer of the white wax behind.

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A few more comparison shots to show how the finished look at the various stages so that you know what the various steps will result in looks wise as between the paint wash wet and dry and natural wax to white wax the looks created are quite varied… Above on the left we have a paint washed foot with no wax finishing… on the right we have the paint washed and finished with natural and then white wax… the layers of paint wash combined with layers of wax bring a depth to the flat finish of the paint wash…

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On the left we have a foot that has been natural waxed to compare to the foot on the right which has had the white wax applied… you can see the white wax in the crevices and the overall weathered haze that the white wax brings to our weathered wood finish…

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Here are the four finished weathered wood ottoman feet!… what do you think!? will you be painting up some pieces to feather your nest with the weathered wood look!? One of my fave things to weather up are wooden crates for storage around our home… the weathered look also looks great on boards that you can use for cheeky or sweet sayings to hang on your walls or stand on your shelves… or you could weather up some wooden shelves!… the possibilities to bring this weathered wood look into your home are endless!

Now do you remember that I mentioned that Osborne Wood and I have a treat for you!?

Well… right now until September 30 if you purchase the 4075 bun foot in soft maple from Osborne Wood Products you will save 15% off of your purchase by entering code FMN15 during the checkout process!

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Here’s a sneaky peek of the weathered wood feet installed!… stay tuned for the Reloved Ottoman Part II: Reupholstery!… if you want to be among the first to see the full reveal, and the how to, pop your email address in the little subscribe box at the top right side of the this page and hit submit!… then whenever I publish a post it’ll be sent right to your inbox!

Once you get some wood projects weathered up for you home please come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share some photos of your weathered wood! I can’t wait to see what you make!

xx

Lacey

Folding Books…

If you’re looking for unique home decor for yourself, or a special gift {and you have some time to pass} folding up the pages of an old book is the way to go!… especially if you’re a book lover or are gifting to a book lover!… so try your hand at folding books!

Book Folding - 1

Let’s get right into it… folding a book can take an hour or it can take you a couple hours depending on how many pages and intricate the design! To get started with folding books you need the following:

Books – hardcover books stand up easily on their own so try to get your hands a pile of fat hardcovers. I picked up a pile at a salvage yard for fifty cents a book! Score!… I even found a great Singer uphosltery how to book when I went out hunting for these books for folding!  Double score!

Ruler

Pencil

Knife – use a fresh blade

Folding tool – I utilized a bone folder to make my folds crisp… this isn’t necessary as you can just press the pages with your fingers but I had the bone folder on hand from my book binding and box making days 🙂

Pattern – yes book folding via pattern… there are tutorials online on how to get into making your own patterns but if you just want to get right to work folding there are a great variety of patterns that you can purchase online through outlets like etsy!  The Heart and K pattern seen here were purchased from Pomp & Whimsy – check her out for your folding patterns!

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Using the ruler measure a minimum of two inches out from the spine of the book and mark a line across the top and bottom of the books pages…

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…like so…

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Using the knife put a slice in the top and bottom of the book pages… this will create registration marks for folding that will make the process move along more quickly.

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Checkout the little nick in the top and bottom of the pages…

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Now get your pattern sheet printed and fold the top line – this is the pattern registration that will keep everything lined up, where you need it without even thinking about it, while you are folding away…

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DIY Marta’s patterns are really great and make folding books a breeze – they’ve all been noted with the pages required to make the pattern and they can also be folded with just half of the page numbers noted on the patterns!… you just have to make sure your book has that many pages or more!.. easy peasy! If you want to only use half the number of pages as noted on the pattern then you work with ONLY the black OR the white lines of the pattern as opposed to black then white then black then white… so the pattern that is made for 400 pages can be folded in 200 pages… depending on your time and the amount of detail you want to achieve you have some say in how long it will take you to fold!

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To get started slide your pattern under the first page that you are going to fold to the first line of the pattern. Use the folded top of the pattern to line the pattern up on the book – press the top fold down to the top of the pages… that’s you’re easy pattern registration that will keep everything lined up and square…. Now… using the ruler line up the top of the first line of the pattern and the top nick in the top of the pages… then fold the page back along that line…

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Here is where I like to use my bone folder to make a nice sharp fold… and then I use it to press the fold flat when I take away the ruler…

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Once the top fold is made, on the same page, take the ruler and line up the bottom page registration nick to the bottom of the first line of the pattern and fold the page up…

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Now you see on my pattern there are two levels in the one line from top to bottom on the pattern… we will only fold one of these levels in the line from top to bottom… then move onto folding the next page and fold the level above or below the one we’d just folded in the next line of the pattern… as you fold a page mark the line of the pattern, or lines if there are multiple levels within the current line of the pattern…

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Move through the book pages moving up and down the levels and crossing off each line as you go if there are multiple levels per line of patter…

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I found that as I move down through the book the paper that hangs down the top of the book, because of registration fold on the pattern, will start to bing up in the work surface… If you experience this, and it is hard to keep your pattern registered, trim the length of the paper above the pattern fold fold… this will make keeping the pattern in place easier.

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…aslo as you move through the pattern, if it is wider than the book pages, it will start to bring up in the inside of the book… feel free to cut away excess pattern that you’ve already folded…

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…then… fold, fold, fold your way through the book… this is good Netflix marathon time!…

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And when you get through your pattern stand that bad boy up and admire your handy folding work!…

With the “K” I chose to leave pages before and after the letter and worked the pattern as I liked the overall look… The folded K took about 1.5-2 hours of folding time…

Book Folding - 17

…folding this book that says HOME took about 3.5 hours of time, and the heart below as it was the third book I’d folded came together quicker at about 1 hour of time… like anything, when you practice you will find little tricks that work for you to do it cleaner and more efficiently than the previous!…

Book Folding - 18

Now how many of these will you be making for upcoming gifts!?…  Be sure to checkout DIY Marta on Esty as Pomp & Whimsy to get your patterns and get to work!…

To checkout the tv segment of me showing this DIY check it out on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/VpWr_uPixec

When you’re don’t with your book folding please come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook Page and share some photos of your books with everyone… Hey!… even if you have some action shots come and share those too – this could be a great girls girls night with wine and snackies!… everyone over at the FMN Facebook Page would love to see what you’ve made!… AND if you want to get these blog posts sent right to your email inbox, as soon as I hit publish, pop your email address in the box on the right side of this page up top there and then hit submit!

xo

Lacey

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