Category Archives: DIY

Faux Fur Wine Bottle Holder DIY

I love a little faux fur… Its a great way to add warmth and whimsy to your everyday!…  so I created this muppet looking faux fur wine bottle holder and tutorial to share with you… it would be a fun hostess gift for the next dinner party you attend, or perhaps even a fun GALentines present for your bestie and a fun girls night in this coming Valentines day!… There are so many variations of fur that you can get from realistic to downright muppet looking…

Let’s get right to it. For this DIY you will need:

Faux Fur and matching thread – we will cut a 10.5″ x 16.5″ rectangle and a circle with a 10.5″ circumference

Bottom Circle Pattern – download here – print out at full size and trace out then cut out a faux fur circle to use as the bottom of your wine bottle holder

Ribbon – to tie the holder around the neck of the bottle.  I worked with a 20″ piece… if you find it is too long after you can trim the ends to your preferred lengths




Sewing Machine

Sewing Needle


This faux fur wine bottle holder was made for your standard size bottle of wine… if you choose to make this for a champagne bottle or any other larger bottles you may have to increase the size of your rectangle and bottom circle. The width dimension of the faux fur rectangle is 10.5″ and the height of the rectangle is 16.5″

There is a trick to cutting faux fur… You don’t want to snip away the fur, so after you’ve marked on your rectangle for cutting, use scissors to cut the pieces out… BUT when you cut the fabric have the backside of the fabric up and cut only the fabric back letting the lower blade of the scissors slide between the fur.

Once your rectangle and circle are cut pin those pieces together… decide if you want your fur going up or down… whichever direction you decide will determine the bottom of your faux fur wine bottle holder… Start the first pin 1/4″ in from the rectangle edge.

When pinning pieces of faux fur together work slowly and push the faux fur down and inside/away from the edge… this will ensure that your fur doesn’t get trapped in the sewn seam…

Working all the way around the circle pin the faux fur wine bottle hold bottom into place… We’ll deal with the vertical seam shortly… the faux fur is pretty forgiving so this will work up nicely.

For the sizes of piece cut for this faux fur wine bottle holder I worked with a 1/4″ seam allowance… its just nice and easy to use the edge of the presser foot as the guide I find 🙂

Start sewing the circle 1/4″ away from the edge of the rectangle and stop 1/4″ away from the other edge when you get around to it. Sewing the thick fabric pieces together can be a little tedious but just work slowly… you’ll be all around the circle in no time…

Once you’re around the circle remove the bottom pins and then pin up the open vertical edges of the faux fur wine bottle holder…

Now as you work up the side don’t forget to pin your ribbon tie into place!…

Fold your ribbon in half… and tuck the tails inside of the faux fur tube… the tails go inside now so that when the wine bottle holder is turned right side out the ribbon tails are right where they need to be… below you can see that the ribbon fold is up through the pinned edge of the faux fur wine bottle holder.

For the dimension here I placed the ribbon at about 13.5″ up the side… depending on where the neck of your bottle starts you can adjust this dimension to suit your bottle!

Once everything is pinned into place sew up the side using your 1/4″ seam allowance.

Once all is sewn and threads are trimmed turn that sucker right side out!

There you have it! Your sewn wine bottle holder with ribbon tie!… but wait!…

…if you wish to leave the cut edge at the top it will hold and not fray BUT if you want to kick it up a notch and give it a special finishing touch I recommend hand stitching the top edge back down to the inside of the faux fur wine bottle holder… This creates a finished edge and makes your work look pro.

…you don’t have to fold over and sew down much… just the edge that you can pickup with your needle… enough for the faux fur to fold over the top edge creating a full faux fur frenzy right to the top of your faux fur wine bottle holder!

Here is a bottle of the Canadian Red Rooster Winery Red Cab Merlot for one of my gal pals for galantines… a bottle of wine is a great gift… but look how fun it becomes when you pop it into a muppet faux fur wine bottle holder!

Or as mentioned this would be a fun wintery hostess gift kicked up a notch!…

Okay now get your tushies out to the nearest fabric shop to hunt down some faux fur for your very own wine bottle holders!…

And be sure to come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share photos of your faux fur wine bottle holders with everyone over there! I can’t wait to see what fur and ribbon combinations you come up with… and to hear about the gift giving occasion you used it for!… AND to hear about the reaction to your lovely handmade gift!


Oh and if you enjoyed this DIY be sure to subscribe to receive these blog posts right to your inbox when I hit publish by popping your email address into the box in the right hand column at the top of this page! And if you want to pin with me come on over to the FMN page on Pinterest! See you there babes!



Reloved Ottoman Part 1: Weathered Wood Feet

I’ve just finished reloving the busy blue patterned lay-z-boy ottoman that I shared on instagram awhile back… between the reupholstery and preparing the new feet I have over sixty photos to share with you to show you step-by-step how to reupholster and step-by-step of how make the wood feet to look weathered.  I’ve broken this DIY project out into two parts: Part 1 – Weathered Wood Feet and Part 2 – Reupholstery. Part 1 shows the stages of creating the weathered wood look using FAT paint washes and waxes on some great soft maple bun feet from Osborne Wood Products… at the end of this post Osborne Wood and I have got a little treat for you!  The steps in this weatherd wood tutorial can be used on other raw wood items to make them look weathered as well.

Lets get things underway! I’ve taken a contemporary ottoman that I found at a second hand shop for $50 and have given it a vintage beach house vibe with canvas and driftwood looking weathered wood feet.

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The leg on the left is one of the original legs from the ottoman… a super contempo dark brown stained foot.  The leg on the right is from the incredible Osborne Wood Products. It comes in a variety of wood types… but it is just the beginning of the options at Osborne Wood Products.  They have a killer selection of furniture feet, table legs, moulding, corbels… and all available in a variety of wood from traditional, to premium, to specialty wood types… and be sure to check their specials section!  You’ll find pieces for every project!… and their shipping is speedy!

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I chose the Bridle Round Bun Foot in soft maple as the style was exactly what I was looking for to create the beach cottage vibe ottoman.  I chose the leg to be a little shorter than the original leg height, on purpose, as the ottoman sat about an inch too high in comparison to our couch… the ottoman is rather large and will double as ottoman and coffee table so I wanted it to be just a touch lower.

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The feet come without the furniture lag screws for screwing the feet into the existing ottoman feet screw holes.  I removed one of the existing ottoman feet by unscrewing it out of the bottom of the ottoman and brought it to Home Depot to ensure that I picked up the correct size lag screw for the new feet.  I also grabbed two nuts that fit onto the screw end of the lag screw… these two nuts are used to screw the lags down into the wooden feet.

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Before the painting and finishing of the feet we have to prepare them for the installation of the lag end of the lag screws. Preparing and installing the lag screws before finishing ensures that you don’t damage your finished paint and finishing work with the drilling and potentially man handling the feet to get the lags in. Prepare the feet by drilling a pilot hole into the top of the feet.  Find the drill bit that is the size of the lag end minus the threads.  Now see that gold washi tape on the drill bit?  I wanted to make sure that I drilled the hole deep enough so I marked the corresponding length of the lag on the drill bit… I recommend creating this tape mark as it will alert you to the proper depth that you need to drill into the top of the foot, and why not take a small step that makes the process that much simpler!?

The wood round bun feet, as they are a turned wood product, have marks in the centre at the top and bottom of each foot. This centre mark can be used at the guide for location for the lag pilot hole that we have to drill…

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To ensure that I drilled a straight pilot hole I used a drill press to create the lag screw pilot holes… it. went. quick. Drill the pilot holes in the top of all four feet and then vacuum away any wood dust.

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Now back to those two nuts I mentioned earlier… to install the lag screws into the feet…. take the two nuts and screws them just onto the top of the screw…. using a combination wrench and a ratchet with corresponding socket tighten the two nuts together… once tightened down together these two nuts will enable you to drive the lag down into each foot using the ratchet! BAM!…

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Once the nuts have been tightened together remove the combination wrench and use the ratchet to drive the lag into the pilot hole in the top of each foot…

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This part is easier if you have two sets of hands… one set to hold the foot and then the other set of hands to drive the lag with the ratchet.  If you don’t have a second set of hands you can use a vice… just be sure to wrap the foot with a cloth so that it does not get damaged by the vice.

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Once the lag is driven down into the foot use the combination wrench and ratchet again together, but this time to break the nuts apart so that the nuts can be removed from the screw end and used for the next lag install on the next foot…

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TADA!… four legs ready with hardware to be installed onto the ottoman!… only they’re still naked… let’s get onto creating the weathered wood look!

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The fist time you try this method I recommend testing it out on a scrap of wood… how the wood looks wet is different from how it dries, and then once waxed it changes again!… Using FAT Paint greys, water, CLING ON brush and mixing bowl I create a wash by picking up a dab of paint of one colour, for the first application, and then two paint brush splashes of water and I swish this all together in my mixing bowl… have a piece of paper towel or rags on hand, and lay down some plastic on your work surface – this can get drippy.

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Apply the wash all over the wooden feet and set them aside to dry… they might look splotchy as they dry but don’t fret… have a glass of wine and relax until they’ve dried and are ready for you to continue…

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They will dry evenly if you’ve thoroughly mixed your paint wash… notice how light they’ve dried compared to how dark the paint wash looked?  This is why I recommend a few test boards – once you mix a couple washes, playing with the paint to water ratio, you will get a good idea of how much water and paint to mix to achieve the like that you like the most in the dried piece.  For my first paint wash coat I used a brown based grey… for my second wash I used a blue base grey…

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Again, for the second paint wash layer for my weather wood look, I mixed paint and water with my CLING ON brush in a mixing bowl.

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I applied this second coat that I mixed a little more paint heavy and then blotted off the excess wash… don’t be afraid to play with applying and dabbing away to create the weathered wood look that you like…

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I’ve taken a wet and dry shot again to show you just how much they will lighten once the paint wash has dried…

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Here are the freshly paint washed feet after I’ve applied the second paint wash… they look splotchy and dark…

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…and here they are after the second paint wash coat has dried!… just lovely… now they’re still pretty raw and porous… if a drink was spilled on them they would absorb the liquid and depending on what that spilled liquid was it could stain the wood… the solution to this potential problem is waxing to seal up the wood and protect your paint finish… initially waxing will darken the wooden legs… but I have a second layer wax trick that adds to the weathered wood look.

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When waxing large surface of dressers I like to apply the wax with cheesecloth, but when I’m applying wax to a smaller piece that has nooks and crannies I like to apply the wax with a stiff bristled brush to make sure that the wax gets every inside edge and over every detail… A trick to working with coloured waxes is to apply a layer of the clear natural wax first… this seals the paint and creates a slip making the application and working of the coloured wax much easier, and prevents the pigment in the wax from staining the painted surface…

Now like many things there is an exception to this ‘natural wax first’ tip when you are working with a very dark paint colour and will be applying a dark wax. If the painted colour is very dark and you are looking to deepen the details even further you can go right into using your dark wax to finish the piece off, skipping the layer of natural wax first… if you’re feeling hesitant about this do a small test on a scrap piece of wood to ensure that you will get the results that you want.

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Using a stiff bristled brush I first apply natural wax all over the surface of my weathered wood look feet…

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…let the piece sit for five minutes and fluff up a piece of cheese cloth to get it ready for buffing the wax that has been applied… if you cut the cheese cloth from a larger piece be sure to give it a shake to get any little cut fluffies out of the cloth. Also if plan to use something other than cheesecloth to buff the wax be sure that it is lint free… trust me! once I tried to use an old t-shirt to buff wax on a white dresser… it was a lint disaster!… now I’m a cheese cloth wax buffer!

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Using the cheese cloth be sure to buff the excess wax out of the grooves and give the whole feet a good buff overall.

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The natural wax brings out the wood grain and deepens the the colours of the paint washes… it creates a rich beautiful finish… but because I want a weathered look I do one more wax step past the natural wax… white wax.

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For more compassion to show the differences between the steps check this out… on the left we have the foot that has been paint washed and has dried, with no wax to finish it yet.  On the right is the paint washed foot that has been finished with the natural wax.  Quite different right!?

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To me, beachy weathered wood is much lighter as it has been washed out by the salty sea and bleached by the sun… my final step to created a weathered wood look is to apply a coat of white wax…

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In the same fashion as applying the natural wax apply the white wax with a stiff bristled brush ensuring that all nooks and crannies are well coated… on larger items and flat surfaces I apply wax inline with the grain…. as these feet are small and the grain varies I just slap the wax on there to make sure that all details have been well coated…

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Let this sit for 5 and fluff up your cheese cloth to get ready for a buff!…

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Now when I buff the white wax layer I’m not as vigorous in the areas of the grooves… I want to leave some wax build up behind in the grooves to make the details pop and to add to the over time build up aged and weathered look… and I don’t buff the overall surface as vigorously, leaving a nice layer of the white wax behind.

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A few more comparison shots to show how the finished look at the various stages so that you know what the various steps will result in looks wise as between the paint wash wet and dry and natural wax to white wax the looks created are quite varied… Above on the left we have a paint washed foot with no wax finishing… on the right we have the paint washed and finished with natural and then white wax… the layers of paint wash combined with layers of wax bring a depth to the flat finish of the paint wash…

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On the left we have a foot that has been natural waxed to compare to the foot on the right which has had the white wax applied… you can see the white wax in the crevices and the overall weathered haze that the white wax brings to our weathered wood finish…

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Here are the four finished weathered wood ottoman feet!… what do you think!? will you be painting up some pieces to feather your nest with the weathered wood look!? One of my fave things to weather up are wooden crates for storage around our home… the weathered look also looks great on boards that you can use for cheeky or sweet sayings to hang on your walls or stand on your shelves… or you could weather up some wooden shelves!… the possibilities to bring this weathered wood look into your home are endless!

Now do you remember that I mentioned that Osborne Wood and I have a treat for you!?

Well… right now until September 30 if you purchase the 4075 bun foot in soft maple from Osborne Wood Products you will save 15% off of your purchase by entering code FMN15 during the checkout process!

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Here’s a sneaky peek of the weathered wood feet installed!… stay tuned for the Reloved Ottoman Part II: Reupholstery!… if you want to be among the first to see the full reveal, and the how to, pop your email address in the little subscribe box at the top right side of the this page and hit submit!… then whenever I publish a post it’ll be sent right to your inbox!

Once you get some wood projects weathered up for you home please come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share some photos of your weathered wood! I can’t wait to see what you make!



Folding Books…

If you’re looking for unique home decor for yourself, or a special gift {and you have some time to pass} folding up the pages of an old book is the way to go!… especially if you’re a book lover or are gifting to a book lover!… so try your hand at folding books!

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Let’s get right into it… folding a book can take an hour or it can take you a couple hours depending on how many pages and intricate the design! To get started with folding books you need the following:

Books – hardcover books stand up easily on their own so try to get your hands a pile of fat hardcovers. I picked up a pile at a salvage yard for fifty cents a book! Score!… I even found a great Singer uphosltery how to book when I went out hunting for these books for folding!  Double score!



Knife – use a fresh blade

Folding tool – I utilized a bone folder to make my folds crisp… this isn’t necessary as you can just press the pages with your fingers but I had the bone folder on hand from my book binding and box making days 🙂

Pattern – yes book folding via pattern… there are tutorials online on how to get into making your own patterns but if you just want to get right to work folding there are a great variety of patterns that you can purchase online through outlets like etsy!  The Heart and K pattern seen here were purchased from Pomp & Whimsy – check her out for your folding patterns!

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Using the ruler measure a minimum of two inches out from the spine of the book and mark a line across the top and bottom of the books pages…

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…like so…

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Using the knife put a slice in the top and bottom of the book pages… this will create registration marks for folding that will make the process move along more quickly.

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Checkout the little nick in the top and bottom of the pages…

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Now get your pattern sheet printed and fold the top line – this is the pattern registration that will keep everything lined up, where you need it without even thinking about it, while you are folding away…

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DIY Marta’s patterns are really great and make folding books a breeze – they’ve all been noted with the pages required to make the pattern and they can also be folded with just half of the page numbers noted on the patterns!… you just have to make sure your book has that many pages or more!.. easy peasy! If you want to only use half the number of pages as noted on the pattern then you work with ONLY the black OR the white lines of the pattern as opposed to black then white then black then white… so the pattern that is made for 400 pages can be folded in 200 pages… depending on your time and the amount of detail you want to achieve you have some say in how long it will take you to fold!

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To get started slide your pattern under the first page that you are going to fold to the first line of the pattern. Use the folded top of the pattern to line the pattern up on the book – press the top fold down to the top of the pages… that’s you’re easy pattern registration that will keep everything lined up and square…. Now… using the ruler line up the top of the first line of the pattern and the top nick in the top of the pages… then fold the page back along that line…

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Here is where I like to use my bone folder to make a nice sharp fold… and then I use it to press the fold flat when I take away the ruler…

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Once the top fold is made, on the same page, take the ruler and line up the bottom page registration nick to the bottom of the first line of the pattern and fold the page up…

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Now you see on my pattern there are two levels in the one line from top to bottom on the pattern… we will only fold one of these levels in the line from top to bottom… then move onto folding the next page and fold the level above or below the one we’d just folded in the next line of the pattern… as you fold a page mark the line of the pattern, or lines if there are multiple levels within the current line of the pattern…

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Move through the book pages moving up and down the levels and crossing off each line as you go if there are multiple levels per line of patter…

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I found that as I move down through the book the paper that hangs down the top of the book, because of registration fold on the pattern, will start to bing up in the work surface… If you experience this, and it is hard to keep your pattern registered, trim the length of the paper above the pattern fold fold… this will make keeping the pattern in place easier.

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…aslo as you move through the pattern, if it is wider than the book pages, it will start to bring up in the inside of the book… feel free to cut away excess pattern that you’ve already folded…

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…then… fold, fold, fold your way through the book… this is good Netflix marathon time!…

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And when you get through your pattern stand that bad boy up and admire your handy folding work!…

With the “K” I chose to leave pages before and after the letter and worked the pattern as I liked the overall look… The folded K took about 1.5-2 hours of folding time…

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…folding this book that says HOME took about 3.5 hours of time, and the heart below as it was the third book I’d folded came together quicker at about 1 hour of time… like anything, when you practice you will find little tricks that work for you to do it cleaner and more efficiently than the previous!…

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Now how many of these will you be making for upcoming gifts!?…  Be sure to checkout DIY Marta on Esty as Pomp & Whimsy to get your patterns and get to work!…

To checkout the tv segment of me showing this DIY check it out on YouTube here:

When you’re don’t with your book folding please come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook Page and share some photos of your books with everyone… Hey!… even if you have some action shots come and share those too – this could be a great girls girls night with wine and snackies!… everyone over at the FMN Facebook Page would love to see what you’ve made!… AND if you want to get these blog posts sent right to your email inbox, as soon as I hit publish, pop your email address in the box on the right side of this page up top there and then hit submit!



Boho Fairy Lights…

Boho Fairy Lights… these are incredibly adorable strings of lights that are colour and texture customizable!… use them indoors in your office or bedroom for some trendy mood lighting, or on a mantle or down a stair railing for the holidays!… the possibilities of looks with these are endless… funky and fun… girly and romantic… its all up to you!

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To make these lights you need:

String of lights – I picked indoor warm white lights… if you want to use them outdoors be sure to get outdoor lights. You can usually find strings of LED lights at most big box or hardware stores year round

Ribbons/Fabrics/Yarn/Tulle – to hang from the light to create that darling boho fringe… there are so many colours and textures to choose from!


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To prepare your fabric strips from a larger piece of fabric we need to cut even width strips from the fabric… a tip to cut even strips from a larger piece of fabric: determine a width for your fabric strip and make a small snip, about a half inch deep, into the edge of the fabric at your desired thickness…

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We only need to make a small snip… once you’ve snipped pickup the fabic and tear it!… yes tear it!… it will tear straight!… to prep the fabric you may need to do this close to the very edge and then begin to measure over from your freshly ripped edge… This fabric that I’m tearing up!?… a bed sheet… lots of fabric strips from this one!

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Tearing fabric strips does create a little fuzzing at the fabric edge and some loose strings that you need to pull away… the little edge fuzzies add to the boho look of this boho fairy lights garland!

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Cut your ribbons, fabrics strips, and pieces of yarn to different length and using a larks head knot attached the ribbons and things to the light string…

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Fold the ribbon in half, put it under the light string, pickup the tails through the top loop and pull tight around the wire!… bam!… ribbon is attached!…

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You don’t have to do this type of knot for every piece of ribbon that you attach… you can tie some bows, and some half knots, to create some variation in the attachment methods and overall texture of your garland lightstring!…

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Here is the larks head knot pulled tight…

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You can also use the yarn to make little tassels to hang from the light string as well!… for a lightweight yarn like the one you see here I made sixty loops over my four fingers…

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Slide the yarn loops carefully off your hand… and then tie it together at one end using another piece of yarn… leave the tails of this piece long as those are what you will use to tie the tassel to the light string!…

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Next, to make the tassel bobble, tie a string around the set of loops – I like to do it so that the top third is captured as the bobble…

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Once all is secured snip the loops at the bottom to free the tassel ends!… after the ends are free flowing you can do some trimming to make the tassel however short and even as you like… I’ve found with the boho light string an uneven ended tassel works great!…

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Now continue to attach ribbon, toile, fabric, laces, and whatever other bits you like until your light string is full!…

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Cut the tops and bottoms as necessary to create a look that you love…

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Depending on the length of your light string this could take a little while so put on your favourite tv series, movie or music and have fun creating your very own boho fairy lights!… Here is my completed light string!… I went with creams and whites because those match my home decor.  You could do this with different colours, ribbons, types of fabric and customize your fairy lights for your holidays, events or home decor!…

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I can’t wait to see how you make your light string!… please come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share some photos of your boho fairy lights!… and remember like any lighted decoration be sure not to leave these unattended for long periods of time… again these are LED lights and are cooler than the old style incandescent lights.  I’ve had my set up and lit for hours without any issues!…

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Photo by Candice Munro of Buttercream Clothing


Okay I had to share this shot of a set of these boho fairy lights, that I made, hanging above a friend’s bed! Candice has hung them perfectly!



Melted Crayon Pumpkin…

Hi there!… looking for something a little non traditional for your halloween pumpkin this year?… Although this one can get messy it feels like its a whole lot less messy than gutting and carving a pumpkin! Try your hand at making a Melted Crayon Pumpkin!

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To make the melted crayon pumpkin you need the following:

Pumpkin – the melted crayon looks great with a white pumpkin but you could use an orange one, or even paint your pumpkin first!

Crayons – new or old broken bits from your kids crayon stash

Glue – white glue or crazy glue

Heat source – hair dryer / heat gun.  The hair dryer is the slower melter of the two and does create some melted crayon spray but if you’re setup properly this works great.  If you have a heat gun this will melt your crayons faster but you have to try not to melt them too fast.  You can find heat guns in the paint removal section of stores like Home Depot.

Brownpaper / Newspapers – to protect your work surface from crayon drips/spray

Apron – to keep yourself free of melted crayon

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Before you get started peel all of the crayons that you will be using…

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…wash and thoroughly dry your pumpkin to remove any dirt! Also let your pumpkin warm up to room temperature if you purchased it from an outdoor market!…

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If you are making this pumpkin with kids you can opt to use some non toxic white glue… this glue takes longer to dry so it will be awhile before all of the crayons are stuck into place and you can move on with the melting.  Gluing the crayons to the top of the pumpkin holds them into place so that they don’t fall off while you’re trying to melt them.

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I opted to use crazy glue… you only need the tiniest dot… once the glue is on the crayon press the crayon into place on the top of the pumpkin… I also crack the back end off of the crayon as my pumpkins were petite and too much crayon was just hanging out in the air.

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…hold the crayon in place for a few moments… the crazy glue doesn’t always hold on the first try because the crayon is made of wax but be patient and hold it in place for a few extra moments – the glue will hold enough for you to get the crayons melting and then the glues purpose has been served!

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see!… BAM!… crayon in place…

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Now work your way around the pumpkin… the colours and the number of crayons are totally up to you… if you use all reds and burgundy crayons your pumpkin will look like its oozing blood – you could poke a fake knife into the top!… or go with orange and black for a traditional Halloween colour scheme…

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I worked my way around this pumpkin with a rainbow!…

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Then I broke out my hair dryer… in the video segment with BT I show the heat gun method… as noted,  when using the heat gun you want to use a low temp and melt the crayons slowly so that they all don’t just run down the sides without pooling at the top for a larger cascade of the melted colours.

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Hairdryer in hand…

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…this is a slower method but don’t lose patience… start close to warm the crayons up and then pull back a little… you will see the crayons bed over the side of the pumpkin and start to melt away… you want to move slowly so that the melted crayon spreads out and down…

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Because the hairdryer blows more air it will send some melted crayon flying… be sure to watch your aim and try to work with the hairdryer pointing down… wear an apron and make sure you lay out paper to catch the melted crayon… you could even sit the pumpkin down into a cardboard box so that the sides of the box catch any of the crayon spray (instead of your walls)… yes I got some crayon spray on my wall.

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I found the hairdryer left the melted crayon a little chunky and thick… this isn’t bad – its just a look – if you want it more melted keep the hair dryer on it for longer or switch over to you heat gun to flatten out any crayon lumps!

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These melted crayon pumpkins are super fun to make and display!…

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…darling white pumpkins with a mega POP of colour!

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I can’t wait to see your melted crayon pumpkin!… come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share some photos of your melted crayon pumpkins!



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