Category Archives: DIY

DIY Designer Belly Basket…

I’ve been seeing these designer baskets all over social media lately… after some research I discovered this basket that I’m loving is called a belly basket… but I’m not just talking about the plain janes like in the photo below, though they are great the way they are… I’m talking about the kicked up a notch ones… the ones where the price is also kicked up a few notches… They look incredible with plants placed into them, as blanket storage, or toy storage in a nursery…

Belly Basket

Well babes have I got a DIY for you!… a dipped belly basket, and a tassel and pompom adorned belly baskets… ALL for a fraction of the cost of buying from a designer shop!… and these come along with the satisfaction of having made it yourself!

Now are you ready for this?! It’s easy! a total breeze… a quick and satisfying evening or weekend project!

If you don’t have an IKEA in your home town then check them out online – these baskets fold down and are light so even with shipping it will cost you less and you’ll get more baskets for your buck!

These various versions can be done separately or combined on one basket… its totally up to you!… hit up Pinterst for some great belly basket inspiration and get creating!… These would even make great Christmas, Get Well Soon, New Baby, Housewarming packaging… filled up with treats for the recipient!

Tassel or PomPom Belly Basket Supplies:

  • Ikea belly basket FLÅDIS $12.99
  • Yarns of various colours
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors

Designer Belly Basket Supplies

Pick as many colours and types of yarns as you like… colours to match or contrast your space… whatever you like…

Let me show you how to make a pompom:

Belly Basket Yarn Pompom Step 1

Using a medium weight wool I wrapped it around my four fingers 100 times… then cut a long string to tie the loops together at the middle…

Belly Basket Yarn Pompom Step 2

Working the cut string between the middle and ring finger, around the back of the yarn at the back of my hand and back through the middle and ring fingers at the top and around to the front to be tied into a tight knot…

Belly Basket Yarn Pompom Step 3

Tie a tight knot, leaving the tails of the string long… these tails will come in handy when we secure the pompom to the basket!

Belly Basket Yarn Pompom Step 4

Once the loops are tied together in the middle you end up with loops on both sides of the tied string… take your scissors and cut the loops freeing all the pompom strings!…

Belly Basket Yarn Pompom Step 5

Now… you even have choice in how your pompoms will look… you can leave the strings long and willy nilly for a more free and whimsical looking pom, or give that pompom a haircut… trimming it all around in a ball to create a neat tight pompom… I’ve got photos of belly baskets with both to show you 🙂

{Remember to leave the long strings long for attaching your pompoms to your baskets!}

Now how to make a yarn tassel:

Belly Basket Yarn Tassel Step 1

Using a medium weight yarn I used my four fingers again… but this time only 50 wraps around my hand… and then with a string tie one end of the loops together as you can see at the top of my hand…

Belly Basket Yarn Tassel Step 2

Slip the loop off your hand and then tie a second string just down slightly from the string that you tied to capture one end of the loops to create the little tassel top ball…

Belly Basket Yarn Tassel Step 3

Then you can free the strings at the bottom by cutting the loops at the bottom of your tassel!…

{Remember to leave the long strings long for attaching your tassels to your baskets!}

Belly Basket Yarn Tassels

I like to prep all my pompoms to the tied up loops point… then cut them all and trim them all in a batch…

Belly Basket Pompom Prep

Here are my tight and tidy poms…

Belly Basket Tidy Pompoms

Here are my whimsical poms…

Belly Basket Willy Nilly Pompoms

Now lets get to work with these pompoms to adorn the belly basket!

Belly Basket Pompom Attachment 1

Now remember that we left the string that tied the pompoms together long to attach them to the basket!?… get out your large yarn needle… and work the ends in between the belly basket weave and tie in a knot on the inside of the basket… That’s it! first pom on!… work as many pompoms onto the basket as you like… around the middle… at the bottom… at the top edge… all over at random… whatever floats your boat!

Belly Basket Pompom Attachment 2

I worked a line of my tidy pompoms around half of the belly basket right in the the middle…

Belly Basket Pompoms Being Attached

Belly Basket Pompoms Attached

You can alternate the colours… or mix them up randomly… have fun… if you want to test out the location just tie them onto the basket with bows until you’re happy with the pompom location… then undo the bows, tie knots and cut away any extra string from the inside.

Belly Basket Pompoms Attached Full

Here is a pompom belly basket for the nursery… stuffed with those adorable JellyCat rabbits… they’re soooo soft!…

Belly Basket Pompoms Attached Basket Filled

Now for the messy pompoms… because these pompoms are bigger I chose to use less of them on the basket… and I spaced them out

Belly Basket Messy Pompoms

As with the tighter pompoms… the tie strings were left long and used to tie the pompoms to the basket through the basket weave…

Belly Basket Messy Pompoms Full

I do find that these willy nilly pompoms are definitely more whimsical and fun…

Belly Basket Messy Pompoms Action

AAAAAND the tassel look:

Belly Basket Tassels

Belly Basket Tassels and Blankie
Now for the Painted, or “Dipped” Belly Basket Supplies:

  • Ikea belly basket FLÅDIS $12.99
  • Chalk Paint – I love FAT so am working with their paint product
  • Paint brush
  • Gold leaf or gold paint (optional)
  • Gold leaf sizing and small paint brush if you are working with gold leaf (optional)

Dipped Belly Basket Supplies

I have a couple painters canvasses on hand for when I want to paint furniture in the house… in the winter or a cold or rainy day… they’re a great reusable way to protect your work surfaces.

Dipped Belly Basket Start Painting

This one is just as it looks… crack open that can of paint and get to work painting the bottom half of the belly basket… for the dipped look… if you want a full colour basket go to town and paint the whole thing!

Dipped Belly Basket Painting Under the Edge

I wanted the dipped look so I painted as neatly as I could freehand just under the edge of where the basket folds down.

Dipped Belly Basket Clean Edge

To make this part a little easier put the basket top down on your work surface and work around the underside of the fold first to give yourself a painted border to work within.

Dipped Belly Basket First Coat of Paint

Now after the first coat it the paint might not be as solid as you would like… don’t get the first coat blues… if you want the colour to be solid give the basket a second coat once the first coat dries… see! easy peasy!

Dipped Belly Basket Second Coat

Dipped Belly Basket Second Coat Drying

I didn’t even “get fancy” and paint the bottom of the basket… it will be sitting on the floor and I just didn’t feel the need to spend the paint on the underside… if you want to paint the bottom, paint the bottom!… there is nothing saying that you shouldn’t or should!… its up to you!

Dipped Belly Basket Unpainted Bottom

BAM!… once that bad boy is dry you’re good to fill it with goodies and set it up in your home… make sure you let it dry though… some paint will likely seep through the basket weave to the inside of the basket and you wouldn’t want to put things in there before the paint has dried!

Dipped Belly Basket Navy

Bunnies and blankies in a dipped belly basket!…

Dipped Belly Basket Filled Up

Now you know I couldn’t just do a dipped basket and NOT kick it up even another notch!… yep… gold leaf dots!…

Because of the basket weave getting the perfect round dot is not easily… so I went with a freehanded dot, not a measured out dot… and I love the results! There is something special about the freehanded dots!

Dipped Belly Basket Gold Leaf Prep

Now if you’re using gold paint you could get a round sponge brush and just apply dots of paint… and any colour you choose… it doesn’t just have to be gold… Where the gold gets exciting is if you are using gold leaf to create a true metallic polka dot pattern!

To get the gold leaf to adhere to the basket you have to use a product called adhesive size… for a full gold leaf tutorial you  checkout my how to gold leaf blogpost… but you don’t need that much detail to do these quick and dirty dots… this is just if you want to know more about the gold leafing process than what I’m telling you right here 🙂

Using a small paint brush paint on the adhesive size dots being careful not to apply too much… we don’t want the adhesive size to run outside of the painted dot shape… The size does go on milky but will become glossy and tacky… once it is glossy and tacky it is ready for you to apply the gold leaf!

Dipped Belly Basket Sizing Setting

Because these are small dots I didn’t get too fussy with the leaf… Make sure your hands are good and dry and tear small pieces of gold leaf to cover the dots. Press and rub the leaf pieces onto the glossy size dots on the basket… use a soft cloth to gently press/rub the gold leaf pieces to make sure they’re good and adhered!

Dipped Belly Basket Gold Leaf On

Once they’ve all been rubbed into place use a clean brush to bush away the excess leaf to reveal your darling dots…

Dipped Belly Basket Brushing Off Excess Leaf

VOILA! darling little gilded dot!…

Dipped Belly Basket Gold Leaf Dot

…now get to brushing and remove all of the excess leaf… Working on a towel will help to catch the leaf bits that you’ll be brushing off… and try not to work near a fan or an open window if it is breezy out… those little loose bits of leaf will go flying!

Dipped Belly Basket Gold Leaf Dots

EEEK! Look at that gold just pop in the light!… at first I was a little disappointed that I wouldn’t be able to get a small perfect dot on the belly basket weave but once I saw how they turned out, by free handing the adhesive size dots, I was quite pleased at how natural and “just right” they looked!

Dipped Belly Basket Gold Leaf Dots Complete

Dipped Belly Basket Gold Leaf Dots Filled

Here’s a little reminder of the belly basket before…

Belly Basket Before

and after:

Belly Basket After 1

Belly Basket After 2

Belly Basket After 3

Belly Basket After 4

Belly Basket After 5

Belly Basket After 6

I can’t wait to see what colour/pompom combos you come up with for your home!… Here are some pin options for you to save this project for later!


Be sure to come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page to share photos of your belly baskets in progress and finished! Or tag @featheringmynest on Instagram posts of your baskets so that I can see and share with everyone there!

Now go! get to work on your designer belly baskets!



Great Crate Challenge… what I created with two crates and a $50 budget

Back in January I took part in the Calgary Renovation Show Great Crate Challenge… five local influencers were given two wood crates and a $50 budget to come up with something fun to be displayed at the show!… being as practical as I am I wanted to make something that was really functional and good looking… Seeing the crates I instantly knew what I wanted to create… a rolling crate storage ottoman that could be used as additional seating…

crates and planks

I applied glue to one side of each of the crates, pressed the glue sides together, and secured them with a clamp until they had dried… I cut down a wood plank to the exact size of the bottoms of the two crates once they were together… this would give much needed stability to the thin sided crates and create a solid base for screwing in the little casters.

You can see in the above shot I also cut a plank for the base of the top cushion that would becoming the ottoman cover and seat.  I used the solid wood plank for the top, as well, for stability for the overall ottoman… it needed to hold an adult sitting on it, in my mind, for it to be really functional. Now this top plank I cut down just a little smaller than the full size of the top as I planned to upholster it and didn’t want the top cushion hanging out all over the top like a giant mushroom cap BUT I ensured it was large enough that it wouldn’t fall inside of the crate edges.

crate challenge supplies

I was unable to turn up a thicker foam for the top, on my supply shopping adventure, so I purchased a roll of thinner foam and planned to layer it to build up an aesthetically pleasing thickness for the ottoman cushion top… I used the top plank as the measurement guide for the the foam rectangles and traced out the shape… then with a large sharp exact-o knife and cutting mat I cut the foam pieces out.

batting for crate ottoman top

Now to make sure it was really comfy I also used some quilt batting over top of the foam… this batting was also used to help hold the foam on the top of the top plank into place… Once the two pieces of foam were lined up on the top plank of wood I wrapped the batting over top, down the sides, and then under my top plank, where I secured it into place with staples… cutting away excess bulk at the corners – essentially miter joint at each corner with the batting 🙂 The batting is very forgiving here… staple it down then cut away… or cut and staple… whichever you way you can manipulate the material more easily.

crate ottoman top, foam, and ruler

For the fabric I chose to work with burlap… it would help me to achieve the overall look I was going for… when working with burlap I like to line all of the pieces with fabric to keep the seams and burlap stable as burlap can get a little out of control at times… I also always iron the burlap pieces like you should with any fabric when sewing… but not with the iron we use for our clothes – depending on the burlap you pickup it can be a little stinky (fabric store burlap is much nicer than hardware store burlap 😉 but it all depends on how rustic a look you are going for)

I cut the following pieces 1″ + my seam allowance, larger than the actual size required to create a tight cushion that would fit snugly on the foam and plank top, as I wanted to create a pinched edge around all sides and corners of the upholstered top:

1 top in burlap/1 top in liner fabric (I used an old bed sheet for the liner fabric)

2 long sides burlap / 2 long sides in liner fabric

2 short sides in burlap / 2 short sides in liner fabric

2 long sides 6″ wide in  burlap / 2 long side 6″ wide in liner fabric – for the bottom of the cushion

2 short sides 6″ wide in burlap / 2 short side 6″ wide in liner fabric – for the bottom of the cushion

crate ottoman cushion fabric


As I wanted a clean top cushion and to be able to pull the cover that I was sewing down over the top of the batting, cushion, and board I didn’t have a solid bottom – just four strips that were sewn along the long sides…  this turned into some finicky hand sewing and cutting away excess fabric at the bottom to mitre the fabric in at the corners to keep the bulk down and to create a nice finished look… Once the cover had the top and sides sewn together I sewed the 6″ wide strips to the bottom edges – along the sides only leaving them hanging from the bottom to be pulled under, mitred and those mitred seams in from the corners on the underside sewn down by hand.

Before attaching the cushion cover to the bottom off the plank I placed the cover over top, pinched the edges of the fabric around the top and hand stitched a seam on the outside of the fabric at 1″ in from the edge all the way around the top of the cushion and also at the four corners… to create the flange you see around the cushion… then I did the same all the way around the bottom edge… it’s a little finicky with the underside pieces being loose but I was achieving the look I was after.

Once I created the 1″ pinched seams around all the edges the cover was snug to the padded cushion… now the bottom mitred seams could be done and the cover would stay put on the cushion… once the mitres were sorted, excess fabric snipped away, and all sewn down I stapled the edge of the fabric to additionally secure the fabric cover to the cushion… if you want to get super tight here you could cut a rectangle to cover the opening… hand sewing the edge down to the underside of the cushion.

underside of crate cushion

I’m sure there are other ways to achieve this same look by leaving open other edges and hand sewing those closed after getting the plank/foam/batting stuffed in but for me, at midnight, this is what my brain turned up 😉 and the ottoman cushion top was complete!

PAINT!… As shown up above… the little can of FAT… I did my paint wash style of painting for this crate to give it a greyed old weathered wood look… I watered down my chosen colour and applied it all over the crate… it does go on darker and lighten as it dries… when doing paint washes I always recommend doing a test piece to ensure you’ve created a wash that will give you the results you want even as far as applying any finish that you plan to use over top as finishes like waxes or clear coats over a paint wash can change the look of the dried paint wash… for this rustic crate I did not seal the finish once it had dired… no wax and no clear… the wood was slightly rough which played perfect in with the old weathered crate look 🙂

Here are two posts where I show various paint washing techniques: Weathered Wood Feet & Shiplap Wall

crate challenge rolling storage ottoman

The colour of the wood worked perfectly with the burlap. The weight of the top seat/cover combined with the roughness of fabric and wood, and the little 1″ handsewn flange around the edge holds the cushion perfectly in place… it is easily lifts off as the cover is snug on the cushion, and sturdy, yet comfy for an adult to sit upon!…

And of course it was Oliver tested and approved before going on display at the Home Renovation Show! 😉

kitty approved crate ottoman

After the Home Renovation Show one lucky attendee won this ottoman! I have to admit I was sad to have to let her go… I’ll have to whip up one for our nest!

Have you created anything fun with crates? I want to hear all about it! Leave me a comment below… and a link to your website with your project! Can’t wait to see!… Sharing this one over at Costal Charm – who doesn’t like a fun link party!?



How to Gold Leaf… via Thrift Store Swap

This is a fun set of reveals that I’m going to share over two different DIY posts! The first post will show you how to Gold Leaf!… how to prep, apply, seal, and even glaze gold leaf!…

Early in the new year I joined a group of bloggers to do a Thrift Store Swap! What’s a Thrift Store Swap you ask!?…

Basically we each found items at a thrift shop to send onto another member of the group and we had to relove whatever we received, that someone else picked out for us!  We gave ourselves a month to repurpose the items and now we’re all sharing what we received and what we turned those items into!









The items I picked up to ship onto one of the swap members, Sammi, were these darling black and gold storage containers (I would have liked to have kept them!)… and a collection of metal pails… along with a couple that I’d had on hand myself in my stash already! To see what Sammi has created from her swap items be sure to check out her reveal post over on her blog!

Thrift Store Swap

The items that came to me, all the way from jolly ol’ England, were theses great hand turned wooden goblets with spindle tops, and a great piece of light canvas… when I unfold the canvas I discovered that it was a curtain panel!… These wood goblets were the perfect candidates to become gilded succulent holders! The light canvas curtain!? to see what that will become be sure to check back in a few days for that second reveal an DIY!Continue Reading

Faux Fur Wine Bottle Holder DIY

I love a little faux fur… Its a great way to add warmth and whimsy to your everyday!…  so I created this muppet looking faux fur wine bottle holder and tutorial to share with you… it would be a fun hostess gift for the next dinner party you attend, or perhaps even a fun GALentines present for your bestie and a fun girls night in this coming Valentines day!… There are so many variations of fur that you can get from realistic to downright muppet looking…

Let’s get right to it. For this DIY you will need:

Faux Fur and matching thread – we will cut a 10.5″ x 16.5″ rectangle and a circle with a 10.5″ circumference

Bottom Circle Pattern – download here – print out at full size and trace out then cut out a faux fur circle to use as the bottom of your wine bottle holder

Ribbon – to tie the holder around the neck of the bottle.  I worked with a 20″ piece… if you find it is too long after you can trim the ends to your preferred lengths




Sewing Machine

Sewing Needle


This faux fur wine bottle holder was made for your standard size bottle of wine… if you choose to make this for a champagne bottle or any other larger bottles you may have to increase the size of your rectangle and bottom circle. The width dimension of the faux fur rectangle is 10.5″ and the height of the rectangle is 16.5″

There is a trick to cutting faux fur… You don’t want to snip away the fur, so after you’ve marked on your rectangle for cutting, use scissors to cut the pieces out… BUT when you cut the fabric have the backside of the fabric up and cut only the fabric back letting the lower blade of the scissors slide between the fur.

Once your rectangle and circle are cut pin those pieces together… decide if you want your fur going up or down… whichever direction you decide will determine the bottom of your faux fur wine bottle holder… Start the first pin 1/4″ in from the rectangle edge.

When pinning pieces of faux fur together work slowly and push the faux fur down and inside/away from the edge… this will ensure that your fur doesn’t get trapped in the sewn seam…

Working all the way around the circle pin the faux fur wine bottle hold bottom into place… We’ll deal with the vertical seam shortly… the faux fur is pretty forgiving so this will work up nicely.

For the sizes of piece cut for this faux fur wine bottle holder I worked with a 1/4″ seam allowance… its just nice and easy to use the edge of the presser foot as the guide I find 🙂

Start sewing the circle 1/4″ away from the edge of the rectangle and stop 1/4″ away from the other edge when you get around to it. Sewing the thick fabric pieces together can be a little tedious but just work slowly… you’ll be all around the circle in no time…

Once you’re around the circle remove the bottom pins and then pin up the open vertical edges of the faux fur wine bottle holder…

Now as you work up the side don’t forget to pin your ribbon tie into place!…

Fold your ribbon in half… and tuck the tails inside of the faux fur tube… the tails go inside now so that when the wine bottle holder is turned right side out the ribbon tails are right where they need to be… below you can see that the ribbon fold is up through the pinned edge of the faux fur wine bottle holder.

For the dimension here I placed the ribbon at about 13.5″ up the side… depending on where the neck of your bottle starts you can adjust this dimension to suit your bottle!

Once everything is pinned into place sew up the side using your 1/4″ seam allowance.

Once all is sewn and threads are trimmed turn that sucker right side out!

There you have it! Your sewn wine bottle holder with ribbon tie!… but wait!…

…if you wish to leave the cut edge at the top it will hold and not fray BUT if you want to kick it up a notch and give it a special finishing touch I recommend hand stitching the top edge back down to the inside of the faux fur wine bottle holder… This creates a finished edge and makes your work look pro.

…you don’t have to fold over and sew down much… just the edge that you can pickup with your needle… enough for the faux fur to fold over the top edge creating a full faux fur frenzy right to the top of your faux fur wine bottle holder!

Here is a bottle of the Canadian Red Rooster Winery Red Cab Merlot for one of my gal pals for galantines… a bottle of wine is a great gift… but look how fun it becomes when you pop it into a muppet faux fur wine bottle holder!

Or as mentioned this would be a fun wintery hostess gift kicked up a notch!…

Okay now get your tushies out to the nearest fabric shop to hunt down some faux fur for your very own wine bottle holders!…

And be sure to come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share photos of your faux fur wine bottle holders with everyone over there! I can’t wait to see what fur and ribbon combinations you come up with… and to hear about the gift giving occasion you used it for!… AND to hear about the reaction to your lovely handmade gift!


Oh and if you enjoyed this DIY be sure to subscribe to receive these blog posts right to your inbox when I hit publish by popping your email address into the box in the right hand column at the top of this page! And if you want to pin with me come on over to the FMN page on Pinterest! See you there babes!



Reloved Ottoman Part 1: Weathered Wood Feet

I’ve just finished reloving the busy blue patterned lay-z-boy ottoman that I shared on instagram awhile back… between the reupholstery and preparing the new feet I have over sixty photos to share with you to show you step-by-step how to reupholster and step-by-step of how make the wood feet to look weathered.  I’ve broken this DIY project out into two parts: Part 1 – Weathered Wood Feet and Part 2 – Reupholstery. Part 1 shows the stages of creating the weathered wood look using FAT paint washes and waxes on some great soft maple bun feet from Osborne Wood Products… at the end of this post Osborne Wood and I have got a little treat for you!  The steps in this weatherd wood tutorial can be used on other raw wood items to make them look weathered as well.

Lets get things underway! I’ve taken a contemporary ottoman that I found at a second hand shop for $50 and have given it a vintage beach house vibe with canvas and driftwood looking weathered wood feet.

Weathered Wood Feet - 1

The leg on the left is one of the original legs from the ottoman… a super contempo dark brown stained foot.  The leg on the right is from the incredible Osborne Wood Products. It comes in a variety of wood types… but it is just the beginning of the options at Osborne Wood Products.  They have a killer selection of furniture feet, table legs, moulding, corbels… and all available in a variety of wood from traditional, to premium, to specialty wood types… and be sure to check their specials section!  You’ll find pieces for every project!… and their shipping is speedy!

Weathered Wood Feet - 2

I chose the Bridle Round Bun Foot in soft maple as the style was exactly what I was looking for to create the beach cottage vibe ottoman.  I chose the leg to be a little shorter than the original leg height, on purpose, as the ottoman sat about an inch too high in comparison to our couch… the ottoman is rather large and will double as ottoman and coffee table so I wanted it to be just a touch lower.

Weathered Wood Feet - 3

The feet come without the furniture lag screws for screwing the feet into the existing ottoman feet screw holes.  I removed one of the existing ottoman feet by unscrewing it out of the bottom of the ottoman and brought it to Home Depot to ensure that I picked up the correct size lag screw for the new feet.  I also grabbed two nuts that fit onto the screw end of the lag screw… these two nuts are used to screw the lags down into the wooden feet.

Weathered Wood Feet - 4

Before the painting and finishing of the feet we have to prepare them for the installation of the lag end of the lag screws. Preparing and installing the lag screws before finishing ensures that you don’t damage your finished paint and finishing work with the drilling and potentially man handling the feet to get the lags in. Prepare the feet by drilling a pilot hole into the top of the feet.  Find the drill bit that is the size of the lag end minus the threads.  Now see that gold washi tape on the drill bit?  I wanted to make sure that I drilled the hole deep enough so I marked the corresponding length of the lag on the drill bit… I recommend creating this tape mark as it will alert you to the proper depth that you need to drill into the top of the foot, and why not take a small step that makes the process that much simpler!?

The wood round bun feet, as they are a turned wood product, have marks in the centre at the top and bottom of each foot. This centre mark can be used at the guide for location for the lag pilot hole that we have to drill…

Weathered Wood Feet - 5

To ensure that I drilled a straight pilot hole I used a drill press to create the lag screw pilot holes… it. went. quick. Drill the pilot holes in the top of all four feet and then vacuum away any wood dust.

Weathered Wood Feet - 6

Now back to those two nuts I mentioned earlier… to install the lag screws into the feet…. take the two nuts and screws them just onto the top of the screw…. using a combination wrench and a ratchet with corresponding socket tighten the two nuts together… once tightened down together these two nuts will enable you to drive the lag down into each foot using the ratchet! BAM!…

Weathered Wood Feet - 7

Once the nuts have been tightened together remove the combination wrench and use the ratchet to drive the lag into the pilot hole in the top of each foot…

Weathered Wood Feet - 8

This part is easier if you have two sets of hands… one set to hold the foot and then the other set of hands to drive the lag with the ratchet.  If you don’t have a second set of hands you can use a vice… just be sure to wrap the foot with a cloth so that it does not get damaged by the vice.

Weathered Wood Feet - 9

Once the lag is driven down into the foot use the combination wrench and ratchet again together, but this time to break the nuts apart so that the nuts can be removed from the screw end and used for the next lag install on the next foot…

Weathered Wood Feet - 10

TADA!… four legs ready with hardware to be installed onto the ottoman!… only they’re still naked… let’s get onto creating the weathered wood look!

Weathered Wood Feet - 11

The fist time you try this method I recommend testing it out on a scrap of wood… how the wood looks wet is different from how it dries, and then once waxed it changes again!… Using FAT Paint greys, water, CLING ON brush and mixing bowl I create a wash by picking up a dab of paint of one colour, for the first application, and then two paint brush splashes of water and I swish this all together in my mixing bowl… have a piece of paper towel or rags on hand, and lay down some plastic on your work surface – this can get drippy.

Weathered Wood Feet - 12

Apply the wash all over the wooden feet and set them aside to dry… they might look splotchy as they dry but don’t fret… have a glass of wine and relax until they’ve dried and are ready for you to continue…

Weathered Wood Feet - 13

They will dry evenly if you’ve thoroughly mixed your paint wash… notice how light they’ve dried compared to how dark the paint wash looked?  This is why I recommend a few test boards – once you mix a couple washes, playing with the paint to water ratio, you will get a good idea of how much water and paint to mix to achieve the like that you like the most in the dried piece.  For my first paint wash coat I used a brown based grey… for my second wash I used a blue base grey…

Weathered Wood Feet - 15

Again, for the second paint wash layer for my weather wood look, I mixed paint and water with my CLING ON brush in a mixing bowl.

Weathered Wood Feet - 14

I applied this second coat that I mixed a little more paint heavy and then blotted off the excess wash… don’t be afraid to play with applying and dabbing away to create the weathered wood look that you like…

Weathered Wood Feet - 16

I’ve taken a wet and dry shot again to show you just how much they will lighten once the paint wash has dried…

Weathered Wood Feet - 17

Here are the freshly paint washed feet after I’ve applied the second paint wash… they look splotchy and dark…

Weathered Wood Feet - 18

…and here they are after the second paint wash coat has dried!… just lovely… now they’re still pretty raw and porous… if a drink was spilled on them they would absorb the liquid and depending on what that spilled liquid was it could stain the wood… the solution to this potential problem is waxing to seal up the wood and protect your paint finish… initially waxing will darken the wooden legs… but I have a second layer wax trick that adds to the weathered wood look.

Weathered Wood Feet - 19

When waxing large surface of dressers I like to apply the wax with cheesecloth, but when I’m applying wax to a smaller piece that has nooks and crannies I like to apply the wax with a stiff bristled brush to make sure that the wax gets every inside edge and over every detail… A trick to working with coloured waxes is to apply a layer of the clear natural wax first… this seals the paint and creates a slip making the application and working of the coloured wax much easier, and prevents the pigment in the wax from staining the painted surface…

Now like many things there is an exception to this ‘natural wax first’ tip when you are working with a very dark paint colour and will be applying a dark wax. If the painted colour is very dark and you are looking to deepen the details even further you can go right into using your dark wax to finish the piece off, skipping the layer of natural wax first… if you’re feeling hesitant about this do a small test on a scrap piece of wood to ensure that you will get the results that you want.

Weathered Wood Feet - 20

Using a stiff bristled brush I first apply natural wax all over the surface of my weathered wood look feet…

Weathered Wood Feet - 21

…let the piece sit for five minutes and fluff up a piece of cheese cloth to get it ready for buffing the wax that has been applied… if you cut the cheese cloth from a larger piece be sure to give it a shake to get any little cut fluffies out of the cloth. Also if plan to use something other than cheesecloth to buff the wax be sure that it is lint free… trust me! once I tried to use an old t-shirt to buff wax on a white dresser… it was a lint disaster!… now I’m a cheese cloth wax buffer!

Weathered Wood Feet - 22

Using the cheese cloth be sure to buff the excess wax out of the grooves and give the whole feet a good buff overall.

Weathered Wood Feet - 23

The natural wax brings out the wood grain and deepens the the colours of the paint washes… it creates a rich beautiful finish… but because I want a weathered look I do one more wax step past the natural wax… white wax.

Weathered Wood Feet - 24

For more compassion to show the differences between the steps check this out… on the left we have the foot that has been paint washed and has dried, with no wax to finish it yet.  On the right is the paint washed foot that has been finished with the natural wax.  Quite different right!?

Weathered Wood Feet - 25

To me, beachy weathered wood is much lighter as it has been washed out by the salty sea and bleached by the sun… my final step to created a weathered wood look is to apply a coat of white wax…

Weathered Wood Feet - 26

In the same fashion as applying the natural wax apply the white wax with a stiff bristled brush ensuring that all nooks and crannies are well coated… on larger items and flat surfaces I apply wax inline with the grain…. as these feet are small and the grain varies I just slap the wax on there to make sure that all details have been well coated…

Weathered Wood Feet - 27

Let this sit for 5 and fluff up your cheese cloth to get ready for a buff!…

Weathered Wood Feet - 28

Now when I buff the white wax layer I’m not as vigorous in the areas of the grooves… I want to leave some wax build up behind in the grooves to make the details pop and to add to the over time build up aged and weathered look… and I don’t buff the overall surface as vigorously, leaving a nice layer of the white wax behind.

Weathered Wood Feet - 29

A few more comparison shots to show how the finished look at the various stages so that you know what the various steps will result in looks wise as between the paint wash wet and dry and natural wax to white wax the looks created are quite varied… Above on the left we have a paint washed foot with no wax finishing… on the right we have the paint washed and finished with natural and then white wax… the layers of paint wash combined with layers of wax bring a depth to the flat finish of the paint wash…

Weathered Wood Feet - 30

On the left we have a foot that has been natural waxed to compare to the foot on the right which has had the white wax applied… you can see the white wax in the crevices and the overall weathered haze that the white wax brings to our weathered wood finish…

Weathered Wood Feet - 31

Here are the four finished weathered wood ottoman feet!… what do you think!? will you be painting up some pieces to feather your nest with the weathered wood look!? One of my fave things to weather up are wooden crates for storage around our home… the weathered look also looks great on boards that you can use for cheeky or sweet sayings to hang on your walls or stand on your shelves… or you could weather up some wooden shelves!… the possibilities to bring this weathered wood look into your home are endless!

Now do you remember that I mentioned that Osborne Wood and I have a treat for you!?

Well… right now until September 30 if you purchase the 4075 bun foot in soft maple from Osborne Wood Products you will save 15% off of your purchase by entering code FMN15 during the checkout process!

Weathered Wood Feet - 32

Here’s a sneaky peek of the weathered wood feet installed!… stay tuned for the Reloved Ottoman Part II: Reupholstery!… if you want to be among the first to see the full reveal, and the how to, pop your email address in the little subscribe box at the top right side of the this page and hit submit!… then whenever I publish a post it’ll be sent right to your inbox!

Once you get some wood projects weathered up for you home please come on over to the Feathering My Nest Facebook page and share some photos of your weathered wood! I can’t wait to see what you make!



FB  Pin  Insta  Blog  Email

All Rights Reserved copyright 2016 Feathering My Nest

Terms and Conditions *  Privacy Policy